Santa Cruz de Tenerife takes a step back into the past today with activities commemorating the city’s most heroic day.
Every year on 25 July, the island’s capital marks the resistance put up by local militia to the attempted invasion over two centuries ago by British forces under Horatio Nelson which, if it had succeeded, would have changed the course of history in the Canaries and even Spain.
The Battle of Santa Cruz was an amphibious assault by the Royal Navy on the Spanish port city in the Canary Islands. Launched by Rear-Admiral Nelson on 22 July 1797, the assault was defeated after fierce fighting and, on 25 July, the remains of the landing force withdrew under a truce, with Nelson having lost several hundred men.
Nelson himself was wounded in the arm, which was subsequently partially amputated: a stigma that he carried to his grave as a constant reminder of his failure.
Santa Cruz’s defence – a combination of soldiers and local volunteers – was masterfully led by Spain’s General Gutiérrez, whose tactics outwitted the numerically superior British landing party.
In one of the most famous gestures of 18th century military history, Gutiérrez lent the humiliated Nelson two ships to help the wounded British on their way back.
The Spanish general also allowed the invaders to leave with their arms and war honours. On his return to England, Nelson sent a thank you letter to Gutiérrez for his compassion, along with some beer and English cheese. Gutiérrez responded with another letter to Nelson, and some Spanish wine and cheese.
These acts of chivalry led to a courteous exchange of letters between Nelson and Gutiérrez. Nevertheless, Nelson is quoted as admitting that Tenerife had been the most horrible hell he had ever endured.
Every year, the so-called “Gesta” (heroic deed) of 25 July takes place in Santa Cruz. Soldiers turn out in replica uniforms and carry weapons of the time to re-enact the battle, with some licences taken in terms of historical accuracy.
Remnants of the historic confrontation include the ruins of the Castle of San Cristóbal (where Gutiérrez assembled the bulk of his defence force) and a small museum where the “El Tigre· cannon said to have been the one that injured Nelson can still be seen.
